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Amberley circular

Distance: 14.5 miles (15.3 including detour / 10.6 shorter route)
Time without long breaks: 7 1/2 hours (add time for pub breaks).

Terrain: A few gentle hills, but nothing too steep.
How to get there and back: Train to Amberley and back.
Pub breaks: There are two excellent, handily-placed pubs at the five and 10 mile points
The George at Burpham and the George and Dragon at Houghton. As it's quite a long walk, these are both well suited for a food stop. There's also the Squire and Horse at Bury if you fancy a break before the final leg. The walk concludes at another good pub serving food, the Bridge Inn, adjacent to Amberley Station.
More information: There is a detour via Rackham Hill, which adds 3/4 mile, but also the option of missing the last part (four miles shorter). Part of this route includes the same section as the circular walk from Arundel, so you can combine the two (or create your own).

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Click on the image below to access the full map on plotaroute

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The name of this walk is rather confusing as it doesn't actually go to Amberley village at all (see walk 31 for a walk that does), but it starts at ends at the station, which lies two miles outside the village. The route takes you through some stunning downland scenery and the Arun valley, which includes the beautiful riverside villages of Bury and North and South Stoke. There are some great conveniently-located pubs, too. This is a walk that is perfect for a spring or summer's day, when the riverside paths are not too muddy and when you can take advantage of the long daylight hours.

Turn left on exiting the station and head towards the main road. Cross over the road and turn right, following the pavement that soon runs behind a hedge. On the right, on the other side, are the grounds of Amberley Museum. After about 500m, when the path emerges back on to the road, cross over and walk up High Titten. Another lane merges from the left. Just after the large house, take the path on the left by some wooden railings through the trees, following the sign for the South Downs Way. Go through the gate at the top of the slope and after about 300m the path merges with a chalk driveway that leads to a farm.

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The detour (which also forms part of walk 31) will add about abut 3/4 mile to the overall distance. Carry on along the South Downs Way up the hill ahead. This is Amberley Mount, which has great views behind you. There is a group of tumuli to your right at the brow. Carry on along the path towards Rackham Hill until you reach a wooden signpost, with raised earthwork mounds either side (go through the gate and climb up the one on the left for some spectacular panoramic views). Turn right, following the sign to the bridleway, which bears left (don't go straight ahead) and then goes alongside a field. Passing a sign for a restricted byway a little further on, turn right down a long chalk track (ignore the turning immediately on your left).

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On leaving the pub, you will pass Burpham Church on the right. Head up the road to Peppering Farm and continue along the track, with views of the Downs on your left. Follow the bridleway round as it bears right by a line of trees, then take the stile on the left by the sign and cross over the field until you reach some footbridges. Turn right and follow the trees until the path meets a bridleway at the foot of an escarpment. Turn left and carry on along the track until it meets the lane to North Stoke village by a railway bridge. Walk into the village to reach the tranquil church of St Mary's, which has some 14th-century wall paintings.

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Follow the path and then go through a gate, turning right to cross over an iron bridge. This takes you to the scenic hamlet of South Stoke. Walk up the lane to reach the 11th-century flint church of St Leonards, down a path on your left. It has an unusual tall, narrow tower in a French style. Sheep are pastured in the graveyard. On leaving the church, take a left and continue walking up the lane. Just past the barn building on the right, you will notice a footpath sign. Follow the direction of the sign, taking the path between two flint walls to South Stoke Farm, once home to the writer and philosopher C.E.M. Joad (see the panel on walk 50). Turn left, following the track past the farm buildings.

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Walk along the road for a short stretch, looking out for traffic. On the left you will pass Houghton House, once home to the illustrator Arthur Rackham (see below). On the other side is the George and Dragon, a beautiful old pub with fantastic views from the beer garden. Definitely worth stopping here a while. If you want a shorter walk, you can easily return to Amberley station from here (Retrace your steps along the road and turn left into Houghton Lane. After 350km, take the gate on the right to join the South Downs Way. Follow the SDW to the river and over the footbridge, but then carry on along the other bank until you reach the road. The Bridge Inn is to the right of the railway bridge, the station to the left).

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Carry on ascending Bury Hill until you reach some wooden footpath signs on the edge of another field. This is the junction with the South Downs Way. Our route continues straight ahead, however, along a path that runs between the crops. You will soon meet the edge of a wood, where there is another wooden footpath sign. The track descends steeply down through the trees, with glimpses of the countryside to the right. Follow the track, emerging at the edge of the woods (this area was being cleared when we were there, so it might look different to how it appears on maps).

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When you reach the riverside, turn right along the West Sussex Literary Trail and follow the river bank. After about 3/4 of a mile, the South Downs Way merges to the right. Shortly after this, there is a footbridge. Cross over the bridge and carry on following the river, ignoring the SDW, which soon turns off to the left. After a short distance, the path then runs behind some caravans.to reach a main road. Immediately opposite, you will spot a small garden gate. Go through this to reach The Bridge Inn (go back through the gate when leaving the pub and turn right under the railway bridge to reach the entrance to the station).

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Unless you are taking the alternate route (see next box), instead of continuing along the South Downs Way straight ahead, bear right at the wooden signpost following the track round the bend past some metal gates. Then take the path that forks off to the right (before the track swings left). It descends the hill, with views to your right and then winds down past some trees to reach the valley bottom. Passing a pond on your right, take the path that ascends the slope of the hill on the other side, going through a gate when you reach the top. A few yards further along you come to a junction. Take a left along a chalky track. After 400m, it meets another track (the one you would have walked down if taking the detour below). Turn right here.

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If you want to see The Burgh burial mound, take the next turning on your left along a bridleway. Then retrace your steps back to the track and carry on until you pass Peppering High Barn farmhouse. A track merges from your right as you go round the corner past some flint barns. Passing another house on you left, keep going until you reach a junction. Then bear left, staying on Peppering Lane. You will soon reach a crossroads. Take a right into Burpham village. At the end of the road, turn right into Main Street and you will come to The George at Burpham pub on the left. This is ideal for a break and lunch (the George and Dragon at Houghton, five miles further on, is another option).

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After leaving the church, retrace your steps until you come to a red phone box, next to a flint house by a junction of tracks. Just beyond this you will see a footpath sign your right-hand side. Follow the footpath across the field. It leads into the trees where you will soon come to the Gurkha suspension bridge. The original bridge over the River Arun here was damaged by a falling tree and was replaced by the current suspension bridge, which was built by the British Army Gurkhas in 2009. Cross over the bridge and then follow the path through the wood. The path continues through the trees and then emerges via a wooden gate into a field.

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In 400m you come to a gate into a field. Follow the path along the edge of the field to another gate. It then runs through trees following the course of the river. After a while, you will come to an entrance gate to Arundel Park (see walk 50 for a circular walk that emerges here). Continue on the river path, which now forms part of the Monarch's Way (a long distance footpath that tracks the alleged route of Charles I's escape following the Battle of Worcester). About 3/4 of a mile from the park entrance, you will see a house on your left. Follow the path as it turns north, away from the river and up South Street to enter the village of Houghton. When you reach the junction with the main road, turn left.

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Turn right when leaving the pub and take the footpath by a driveway. You are back on the Monarch's Way here, following a path through a holloway of trees which runs parallel to the road. The path then emerges at a field and leads to the A29. Cross over the road and continue along the path on the other side, following the footpath signs. After about 100m, instead of continuing on the Monarch's Way, carry on straight ahead and then turn right up the hill, with the wood on the left and a field of crops on the right. There is a round tumulus in this field known as the Mill Ball.

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The broad track descends the hill, emerging at a bend on West Burton Lane. Turn right and follow the lane past a primary school until it reaches the busy main road. Cross over and you will find the Squire & Horses pub on your right (stop off here if you need a break, but you are not far from the end now if you want to carry on). Turn left and follow the lane into the picturesque riverside village of Bury. There are some beautiful houses here, some with amazing animal topiary. Continue along the lane, following the signs to the church, the river and the ferry crossing.

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The celebrated book illustrator Arthur Rackham lived at Houghton House from 1920 to 1929 with his wife Edyth Starkie. Initially working as an insurance clerk before studying part-time at Lambeth School of Art, Rackham first gained a reputation for his pen and ink illustrations for books such as Fairy Tales of the Brothers Grimm. This was further enhanced with the introduction of colour plates. Among the books including his colour illustrations were Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens and Aesop’s Fables, as well as works by Shakespeare such as A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Lewis Carroll's Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland (see walk 28) was a particular triumph for Rackham, indulging his talent for intertwining the sentimental with the grotesque. He soon became established at the forefront of the ‘Golden Age of Book Illustration’, when beautifully designed volumes in special limited editions were hugely popular. His intricate and magical depictions appealed strongly to an Edwardian readership and regular exhibitions were held of his work, including at the Louvre in Paris.

Rackham met Edyth, an Irish portrait painter who had exhibited at the Royal Academy, over a garden wall when they were both living in Hampstead. They had a happy marriage despite their strongly contrasting personalities. Although there was an astonishing sense of wonder behind those wire-framed spectacles, Arthur was still at heart a strait-laced insurance clerk. Edyth, on the other hand, had lived a wild adolescence and possessed a mischievous sense of humour. The pair encouraged each other in their work and Arthur’s studio was full of Edyth’s paintings. The couple left Sussex in 1929 and settled in Surrey, where Arthur died in 1939 and Edyth two years later. They are both commemorated on a plaque in Amberley churchyard (see walk 31). KB

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